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Animal World Online Care Sheets.

Leopard Gecko..


Leopard Geckos originate from Pakistan, Afganistan and North western India.

Leopard gecko's are one of the most hardy of the gecko species. Combine that with their husbandry being quite simple, even a novice reptile keeper can have great success in keeping and breeding them. 

Being Nocturnal they will be active mainly at night, but you will find they venture around their homes during the day to see whats going on.

They will grow between 6 and 8 inches long.

Always handle your gecko with care. Especially the tail, as this is their defence mechanism.  If too much pressure is applied it will drop off.  It will grow back but not as long as before.  Never house to males together as they will fight.

Most Leopard Geckos will adapt to being handled well and tame easily.


Housing.

A 30" x 15" x 15" vivarium is big enough to house upto 3 gecko's.  The more gecko's you house together, the bigger the vivarium you will need.  A 60w coloured light bulb should be enough to heat the above tank to a basking area of about 87 - 90 degrees during the day dropping to 70 - 75 degrees at night.  A thermometer will be needed to control these temperatures or control them by a dimmer thermostat.

Geckos love to hide so kit out the vivarium with artificial plants and some rocks.  Also a shed box is ideally placed in the cooler part of the vivarium filled with moist vermiculite.  This aids shedding. Spraying once a day will keep it moist.

Bark is a great substrate for gecko's. You can use sand with older gecko's.

A shallow water bowl is needed.


Feeding.

A Gecko's main diet is Crickets. Do not feed them crickets any bigger than their head as they will be too big.

Dust the crickets with a calcium supplement.  For Young geckos you will need to feed twice daily and dust every other feed. Once they are 6 -7 months old you reduce it to twice weekly.

Only put in as many crickets that will be eaten in a 20 minute period as crickets are known to damage sleeping geckos. You can also feed them on mealworms and waxworms. These can be given as treats once a week.

Once the gecko is at adult size you can give them a pinkie once a week.

Bearded Dragon..


Bearded Dragons are one of the tamest lizards there are. Their interesting social behaviours, appetite and activity levels make them great lizard to keep.

The average beardie will grow to 16 - 24 inches from nose to tail. With a rapid growth rate, a 4" hatchling can grow to adult size within a year.

Most Beardies adapt to being handled easily.


Housing.

Th minimum size vivarium suitable for two adult beardies is 48" x 24" x 24".  Basking areas need to be provided under both the UV light and hot spot.  The basking spot should be about 100 degrees farenheit, with an ambient temperature of 75 degrees.  At night the temperature should be droped to 65 degrees. Bearded Dragons need basking spots and high temperatures as it helps with digestion.

A UV light provided along the top of the vivarium within 12" of the beardie is needed. This will provide sun light as not much natural sun will be available. This helps them absorb the vitimins from their food. The beardies need to know the difference between day and night so the UV is on for 12 hours and then turned off for 12 hours.

A heat bulb and thermometer are also needed. You could use a thermostat to control the temperature of the vivarium.

The substrate (what lines the floor of the viv) can be sand, paper or bark.


Feeding.

Bearded Dragons like a range of vegetables, fruit and meat.

They like a variety of insects inc - Crickets, Locusts, meal worms and Wax worms. The insects should be no bigger than the beardies head.

Fruit and vegetables should be offered on a daily basis. Vegetables such as Watercress, Broccoli, carrots and peas. Fruit such as grapes apples and bananas.

Bearded Dragons grow fast and therefore require extra calcium and D3. You can do this by dusting the food with a vitimin supplement like Nutrobal.

Water can be offered in a shallow dish but it is best to spray the viv everyday as they would drink the dew in the wild.

Corn Snake..


The Corn snake originates from the woodlands and rocky hillsides of Cetral America upto North Mexico.

They are quite placid and become tame with regular handling.

Corn snakes normally grow between 3 and 5 feet.


Housing.

A 30" x 15" x 15" vivarium is big enough to house 1 corn snake.  The more corn's you house together, the bigger the vivarium you will need.  A 60w coloured light bulb should be enough to heat the above tank to a basking area of about 78 - 88 degrees during the day dropping to 73 - 83 degrees at night.  A thermometer will be needed to control these temperatures or control them by a dimmer thermostat.

Corn's like to hide during the day, so provide some dark places in the vivarium for them.  Logs, rocks and artificial plants are ideal. Place a rock or stone in the basking area so it will absorb heat for when the corn is active at night.

A sturdy water bowl is needed. You will need to change water daily.  Provide climbing areas for your snake to climb.


Feeding.

Feed your snake on mice that have been frozen and then thawed.

Hatchlings will have a pinkie every 4 days if they still remain hungry then give them two.  As the snake grows you should increase the size of the mouse and the feeding period so the adult will eventually be fed once a week. Corn snakes can not be overfed.

If you house more than one snake in the vivarium, its advised to seperate them at feeding times to stop them fighting.

Young snakes will shed their skin quite often.  You will notice a blue glaze on their eyes when they are due to shed.  You may find they go off their food to but they will eat again after the shed is complete.